Originally, Leon was a Roman encampment that was founded in 29 B.C. In 910 the city became the capital of the Kingdom of Leon. This was an important establishment in Medieval Spain. The city was then sacked in 987 but soon after repopulated again by Alfonso V of Leon. In this process due to the city’s size it became an important stop for pilgrims. In 1188 the city hosted the first European Parliament demonstrating more of the importance the city had during this time.
The city as we experienced is user friendly in terms of walking and being able to visit some of the more important parts. Our group stayed in the university district which worked nicely and each of us was allotted a larger room. The rooms we shared were large enough on both nights to grab items from the grocery store located across the street and cook in. On the first night our professor and accompanying faculty member cooked for the group and on the second night the students cooked for the group. Yes the students did volunteer for this job and yes both meal were as the Spanish would say, c’est delicioso. Please do not check my grammar but roughly translated it means, it was delicious. Given our two night stay there was enough time to see the important components of Leon in relation to the Camino as well as get a taste of the local flavor.
There are two major establishments that are important to the Camino. One of them is called the Santa Maria de Leon Cathedral. It is also known as the House of Light or Pulchra Leonina. It was started in the 15th century and finished in the 16th century. What is special about this cathedral is the over 1,800 square meters of mostly original stained glass windows. In addition to this the cathedral houses a museum. This museum has close to 1,500 pieces of sacred art from pre-historic times up until the 18th century. The outside of the cathedral is known for its French style Gothic architecture. The region is not known for this style which makes the cathedral especially significant.
We visited the cathedral first and for me it was one of the moments in life that make summation difficult. From the previous description, you know the numerical value of the stained glass windows and you know the Gothic style outside is impressive. The difficulty lies in the description of the ineffable. How does one accurately do that? At this moment and forevermore perhaps I may find this task impossible. However, I will give it the old college try.
The outside of the cathedral is impressive with high flying buttresses and a façade that rivals the ocean. I recall staring at the cathedral thinking that it was a joke or some type of mirage. Alas, all the stone and the sweat put into making this structure were and is still real. When approaching the structure your head is immediately drawn upward at the majesty of the structure and as you approach the cathedral your attention is drawn slowly down from the top to the bottom; slowly examining all the fine details of the cathedral to make sure it is in fact real. In many ways from the outside the cathedral was one large piece of eye candy.
If the outside was eye candy the inside was Candyland. For me, it was a moment that took my breath away which is difficult for me because I really enjoying being able to breathe. I walked in knowing the information about how much stained glass there is and how the outside looks. My words fall short of being able to lay two eyes on a row of original stained glass. For me with stained glass it is more than art in the tapestry way because light and especially light from the sun is what breathes life into the stories the glass tells. These stories in many ways are played right in front of you. If you let your imagination wander you can see the passion of Christ retold by the hand of someone from 4 or 5 hundred years ago. There are also stories of kings and queens, bishops, or even of the spring harvest that during the day are laid out for all the visitors. At this moment I revert back to the question of how does one explain the ineffable?
Even in all the glory, there were a couple downsides. The stained glass is so beautiful that you want to take the care and inspect every piece and yet these pieces are not in the reach of giants let alone a couple of students from Wartburg. There is a certain desire unfulfilled like the dessert missed during the perfect dinner. Understandably, there was construction going on to help support the walls of the cathedral which took a little away from the beauty. This was understandable because we found out during the 19th century the whole building almost collapsed due to structural integrity. Overall, well worth the time of the students. For me, the cathedral was an experience that gripped and moved you but as you walked out the large wooden doors you were set down gently back into the real world.
There is also the Basilica of San Isidoro. This basilica is unique in that it is in an old Roman temple that was converted to Christianity when Christianity spread to the region. Much of the architecture from the early Roman times is still present even though the walls have been painted over. St. Isidore or Isidore the Laborer was a part of several interesting events. On one occasion he brought back his master’s daughter to life. He also caused a fountain to burst from the ground for his thirsty master. One day he was late for work because he was praying and an angel was seen doing his work for him.
The Basilica was a different and yet important place because it housed so much of the history of this region of Spain. Leon had been home to this Roman temple and there were pieces of art, clothing, or other artifacts spanning the history of this region. The cathedral was a glimpse into the past of Spain, to me the Basilica and the museum were an interactive timeline into the history of Spain. While the cathedral could move one to tears, the basilica brought one to thought. Especially seeing one right after the other, you almost imagine yourself suited up in 15th century attire walking the streets and feeling such a different culture to what I am accustomed to. I am left with the question of whether exploration and experiencing the world in this way is worth the time, energy, etc. Shortly after I am answered with a resounding... Si!!!
Sam Hutchins
Sam Hutchins
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